Gold Plating is an electrolytic process where a thin film of gold is deposited on an object made of various base metals. There are no regulations stipulating what base metals can be used, no minimum gold karat content and no minimum thickness of the gold plating. Obviously, gold plating is a poor choice for jewely.

Vermeil is also an electrolytic process. A thin film of gold is applied to an object made of Sterling Silver. To be labeled "vermeil" the object must be Sterling Silver plated with gold which is at least 10 karats. The plating must be at least 2.5 microns thick which is less than 1/10,000 ths of an inch of gold. In order to reduce tarnish "bleed-through", the Sterling Silver is often plated first with copper, then with nickel and finally with gold.

Both Gold Plated and Vermeil jewelry pieces look good when new and they are relatively inexpensive. The problems begin when you start wearing the jewelry. The coating is so thin that it will often wear through in a matter of weeks. But, the problems begin before the gold plate wears through. Unlike gold, the metal beneath the gold plating will tarnish. The plating is so thin that the tarnish can work its way through the gold. The result is discolored skin and a darkening of the gold itself.

Many people who claim they can't wear gold jewelry because it reacts with their skin are actually victims of the base metal beneath the gold plating, not the gold itself. The most common skin sensitivity is to nickel. You can expect to find nickel present in the base metals used in any electroplating process unless it is specifically marked as being nickel-free. I cannot guarantee that my sterling silver jewelry is nickel free. I do guarantee my 14KT gold filled jewelry to be nickel free.

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2 What is 14 KT Gold Filled?

Gold Filled (sometimes called Rolled Gold) is a mechanical process whereby a thick coating of gold is bonded (using heat and pressure) to a semi-precious metal (usually brass). Very few mills in the world can make gold-filled and it is quite an expensive process.

To be called Gold Filled the gold used must be at least 10 karats. The weight of the gold used must make up at least 5% of the objects total weight. You will often see labeling in the following format: GF 14/20 This signifies that the object is coated with 14 Kt gold which makes up at least 1/20th (5%) of the objects total weight. 14 KT Gold filled wire is essentially a 14 KT tube around a core of brass. The only gold I use to make the links that make up my chain designs is 14 KT GF. There is typically over 100 times more gold in a gold filled object than in a gold plated object.

There are many collections of gold-filled jewelry pieces with dates on them from the early 1900's that are still in excellent condition. Today, there are very few gold filled jewelry items made commercially. Usually they are made using an inferior gold plating process to keep the costs down. I choose to spend the extra money in order to make a superior product that will satisfy my customers for many years. You can expect any gold-filled piece you buy from me to retain its original beauty throughout and beyond your lifetime.

I guarantee my gold filled jewelry to be nickel-free. Gold Filled jewelry does not tarnish. Over time you may see some darkening of the gold, but this is usually due to skin oils, moisturizers, chlorine in pools or hot tubs, sun tan lotions, etc. The color and shine can easily be restored using a good jewelry cleaner or a jeweler's cloth.

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3 What is Sterling Silver?

Sterling Silver is a combination of fine silver (which is guaranteed to 99.99% pure) and any of a number of base metals. The silver content in a sterling silver object must be at least 92.5% of the weight of the object. Most people are familiar with the .925 stamp on Sterling Silver objects; this is another way of saying that the piece is 92.5% Silver by weight.

The remaining 7.5% can be made up of any combination of base metals. Copper and Zinc are the most common components in the 7.5%, but there is almost always some nickel as well. Since my suppliers can't guarantee that the Sterling Silver Wire I purchase from them is nickel-free, I, in turn, cannot make that guarantee to my customers. This is obviously an issue for people with a sensitivity to Nickel. For people with this sensitivity who would like to order Sterling Silver earrings, I recommend ordering them with Gold Filled Earwires.

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4 What quality are the Findings used with my jewelry?

The findings (clasps, earwires, ear posts, ear clips) that I use in making my jewelry are of the same quality as the jewelry itself. They are either pure copper, 14KT Gold Filled or Sterling Silver. I stock a selection of different clasps in each metal. In Copper I have Copper Toggles (several sizes, antiqued or plain) Copper Lobster Clasps, and hand forged Copper Earwires. In Sterling Silver, I have a variety of Toggle, Lobster, Filigree, and Safety Clasps in several sizes. I also have several varieties of Sterling Silver Earwires, Ear Posts and Ear Clips. In 14 KT Gold Filled, I have the same selections as those in Sterling Silver.

For people with a sensitivity to nickel, I recommend any of my Sterling Silver Earrings mounted on your choice of 14KT Gold Filled ear hardware.

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5 What do the references to wire/ring size mean?

In the descriptions of some of my jewelry pieces, you will see terms like "18 gauge" (or 18 ga) and "4mm I.D." The gauge refers to the diameter of the wire I use to make the rings (links) which make up my jewelry designs. There are 2 standards in use around the world for determining gauge: AWG (American Wire Gauge) and SWG (Standard Wire Gauge). My suppliers use AWG and therefore, I do too. I use mostly 18 ga and 16 ga wire in my jewelry pieces. 18 gauge wire is 0.040 inches in diameter; 16 ga wire is 0.051 inches in diameter.

Ring size is a reference to the size of the individual links in my chain designs. The ring sizes I use most often are 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 5mm & 6mm. A 4mm ring will have 4 millimeter inside diameter (I.D.). The outside diameter (O.D) would depend on the gauge of wire used to make the ring.

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6 How should I measure my wrist to order a bracelet?

It is important to obtain the right fit when ordering a custom made piece of jewelry.

Bracelets tend to be the most problematic to get "just right". You can use both hands to put on earrings or to fasten a necklace; putting on a bracelet is a one handed task. When ordering a bracelet, one of the things to consider is whether or not you expect to have help fastening it every time you wear it. If the answer is "yes", all of my clasps should work for you. If you may be fastening the bracelet yourself, you should seriously consider a toggle clasp. Toggles are the only clasp on a bracelet that a person can fasten and unfasten easily themselves. However, with a toggle clasp it is absolutely essential to get the right size. Too tight and it becomes difficult to fasten/unfasten. Too loose and there is the danger it will unfasten on its own. A properly fitted bracelet with a toggle clasp will never come undone accidentally. Measure your wrist at the spot where you would naturally wear the bracelet. The measuring tape should be snug but not tight. If you don't have a measuring tape, use a piece of string (or ribbon), mark it with a pen, and then measure the marked string with a ruler. Adding three-quarters of an inch (or 2 centimeters) to your measurement gives you the exact size bracelet you should order.

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7 Will jewelry purchased from Karen tarnish?

Copper Jewelry will tarnish. The speed at which it tarnishes depends on your individual skin chemistry as well as a number of environmental factors. The good news is that it is extremely easy to remove the tarnish. The copper cleaning solutions available over the counter are stinky, corrosive and not environmentally friendly. If you choose to use them they will do a good job of removing the tarnish from your copper pieces. With each piece of Copper Jewelry that I sell, I include a formula for a cleaner using only household products to remove tarnish. It is cheap, stable and just as effective as the smelly stuff in the cans.

Sterling Silver also will tarnish. Once again, the same factors as above contribute to how quickly it tarnishes. Sterling Silver is also easy to clean. There are household recipes for removing tarnish from Silver. My choice, however, is to use a good quality dip purchased from a jewelry store or the jewelry counter of large department stores. I personally use Haggerty Silver Clean, but have no reason to believe that other brands are not equally effective. These Silver Cleaning dips are much less offensive to the senses (and the planet) than commercial Copper Cleaners. A touch up with a jeweler's cloth between cleaning will keep your silver jewelry looking its best. Like a Silver tea service, Sterling Silver jewelry will tarnish more slowly and develop a beautiful patina when used regularly. You should avoid wearing silver jewelry in chlorinated pools and hot tubs.

Gold Filled jewelry does not tarnish. Over time you may see some darkening of the gold, but this is usually due to skin oils, moisturizers, chlorine in pools or hot tubs, sun tan lotions, etc. The color and shine can easily be maintained using the combination of a good Gold Jewelry cleaner (I use Haggerty Gold Clean) and/or a jeweler's cloth. To keep your Gold Filled pieces looking their best, you should avoid wearing them in chlorinated pools and hot tubs.

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8 How do I order from Karen's Kustom Jewelry?

My website provides a quick glimpse at some of the designs that I make. All items are priced in Canadian dollars. I maintain a large inventory of Bracelets, Necklaces and Earrings in each of the metals I work in.

If I have in my inventory the exact pieces in the size, pattern and metal(s), that you desire, it would be a happy coincidence. The advantage of buying from me is that I can design and custom make pieces to match your precise requirements. I am constantly working with new patterns and/or incorporating non metals (ie - Arizona turquoise, lava rock) into my work. I can send you photos of these pieces before they ever show up on the website.

Normally I can have a piece (or several pieces) ready to ship in less than 10 days (often only 3 days) after receiving an order. I normally do not require a deposit and I do not charge extra for custom design. I am willing to modify existing pieces for a client if it is a rush order.

Prior to shipping I will send an email with a photo of the exact pieces you will be receiving. The photo will clearly show materials, clasps, length, etc. I require payment in full after you agree to the pieces and before I ship. I will be happy to discuss shipping and insurance options with you so that you know in advance what the full cost will be and when you should expect to receive your jewelry. At that time we can also discuss payment options.

All of the above options are dependent on where I am shipping from, and where I am shipping to. I have homes in both Canada and the USA and would ship from whichever location I was living in at the time of your order.

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